By Kirk Shannon-Butts, Fashion Editor

In a monumental fashion move, the July issue of Italian Vogue features only Black models with all the features related to Black women in the arts and entertainment. Considering the displays of tokenism on the runways last season, model Jourdan Dunn at Prada, and in only one look — an entire issue devoted to Black models could be seen as controversy rather than ground-breaking.


 

The July issue of Italian Vogue is the result of the creative forces of legendary photographer Steven Meisel and Franca Sozzani, Editor in Chief, Italian Vogue. In an interview legendary photographer Steven Meisel said, "I thought, it's ridiculous, this discrimination. It's so crazy to live in such a narrow, narrow place. Age, weight, sexuality, race -- every kind of prejudice."

Steven Meisel did the fashion pictures, about 100 in all. The photos are decided artistic and European in content. Masterfully composed, wildly beautiful, pretty sexy – all the result of someone who knows women, fashion and has looked at both a long time. Models featured and referenced in the legendary issue include Iman, Naomi Campbell, Grace Jones, Alek Wek, Liya Kebede, Pat Cleveland, Jourdan Dunn, Sessilee Lopez, Chanel Iman, Veronica Webb, and Karen Alexander.

When one views the issue, you can only think about all of the models of color who never graced the pages of any fashion magazine. The viewer will wonder why these models are not working more, are not featured in the fashion advertisements, nor not included in runway shows. Meisel suggests: “Because nobody gives her a chance.”

Edward Enninful, the stylist, who worked with makeup artist Pat McGrath, Naomi Campbell and Steven on the shoot—and with Pat McGrath stated, “we created a story that reflected black dreams and aspirations. There was no hip-hop gangsterism, no ghetto fabulousness, no bling-bling clichés.”

In an interview with New York Times with Cathy Horyn, Italian Vogue Editor in Chief Franca Sozzani had this to say: Q: So how did the black issue come about? A: I was in New York in early February for the shows. I always notice the black girls in the streets in New York, more than I would in Milan. And it was also the time of the primaries, Super Tuesday. I’m interested in Obama. In the beginning Steven and I were talking about three or four stories, and then it became the entire issue. Steven really tried to reach all the girls who were around—Pat Cleveland, Iman, Naomi, the young girls, like Liya and Alek Wek. We also went back to the pictures that were used in the past of the black models and performers, like Tina Turner.

Q: Diversity on the runways has been the subject of a lot of media attention. A: We asked Robin Givhan [of The Washington Post] to write a piece. She did a good story. She said that what we were doing was great but—what will happen next month? Will everything go back to where it was before, with all-white models? I think she was right to ask that. I hope the issue will be something that can change things. Anyway, people will talk about it, for sure. Like or dislike, it will be a controversial issue. I think it’s good to keep that tension and focus on this subject. Q: It’s the follow-the-leader mentality. And it winds up being such a narrow view of the world. A: When you see the black issue and all the pictures, you realize that these girls in a way have to work much harder than other models. They are more in touch with their own personalities—they’re not simply models in front of a camera. They really try to get the tension.

Q: Do you think the issue will have an impact? A: Yes, I think it will. I noticed the June issue of French Vogue had a split cover with a black model and white model, though there’s nothing inside. Q: It’s strange to be talking about racial diversity today in fashion. We should be further along. Is there a risk the fashion world will just see it as something trendy? A: It could happen, and it would be a pity. Because, you know, it’s easier to do a normal issue. Paolo Roversi does a story, Craig McDean does another, and Steven Meisel another… I would feel very disappointed if this is only a nice moment. We should go forward. Q: I suppose an all-black issue is something an American magazine might naturally or logically have done, more so than an Italian magazine. A: In a way, it’s one of those stupid ideas that when everyone sees it, they think, Oh, I should have done that. [Sozzani laughs] It was so easy.

Q: What the black issue a political gesture? A: I didn’t feel it was a political gesture. Maybe it was political in that when I see all these girls who look alike in a fashion show, they really annoy me. We need to see beautiful clothes on beautiful women. “Perhaps the designers, perhaps the magazine editors,” Mr. Meisel said. “They are the powerful people. And the advertisers. I have asked my advertising clients so many times, ‘Can we use a black girl?’ They say no….It all comes down to money.”

The Times also notes that, “Italian Vogue has gained a reputation for being more about art and ideas than commerce. Ms. Sozzani also doesn’t mind controversy.” While this is a wonderful fete, it is not an American publication. Americans need to look within the pages of our many fashion and lifestyles magazines and realize the importance of inclusion. The ultimate thing America response to is commerce. If you do not see your reflection in the page it is your responsibility to contact the editors and express this. The ultimate power the consumer has is her dollar. Each dollar beholds a wealth of change, inclusion and diversity. Reference: Cathy Horyn “Conspicuous by Their Presence” New York Times, June 19, 2008